Friday, 30 November 2012
Materials: Border Shelves
Description: I purchased some Broder Shelves and arms expecting to pick up the posts and feet at another store. After making the purchase I was told that this line was being discontinued.
So now I have the perfect shelves for my closet, but no way to mount them. Any idea where I can find posts that would be compatible with the Broder line?
~ Scot, Texas
Materials: Drill, Drilling jigs, Rulers and and standard drawer rails and door hinges
Description: Anyone needing to make a custom cabinet using IKEA kitchen drawers and doors needs to know about the 5mm sized, 32mm spaced mounting holes and where to put them.
A pictorial summary and how-to is linked here.
Materials: 3 billy bookshelves, crown molding, lattice, quarter round, base molding, calk, paint, screw drivers, drill, finishing nails (optionl: chalk pro reel set, shims)
Description: Step 1: Clear out the closet if needed and remove doors. We had to remove the poorly installed wood shelves. (It was fun to rip them down!)
Step 2: Put those Billy Bookshelves together. I put all 3 together by myself in under 90 minutes. You will need both a Phillips and flat head screwdriver for assembly.
Step 3: Wedge the shelves in your closet space. A friend is helpful for this maneuver. We were incredibly lucky with measurements. We had about three inches to spare with the bookshelves in the closet. We also had to account for a dip in the floor. We used shims (scrap wood) to keep the shelves level.
Step 4: We used a chalk line pro-reel to make sure each shelf was lined up on the floor, otherwise the molding would have been a pain! And we nailed the base of the shelves directly into the floor. They are not moving!
Step 5: We used a chisel to make the bottom part of the two ends of the shelves even with the rest of the bottom of the shelf so the base molding could sit in there.
Step 6: Install the lattice where the two book shelves meet to make it look like one piece.
Step 7: Install crown molding above the book shelf. Nail to top of closet or molding around the closet.
Step 8: We installed quarter round on each side to cover an unsightly blemish in the original wood work.
Step 9: Fill in the nail holes with putty or calk and let dry. Then paint.
Step 10: Decorate your new built-in!
See more of the Billy built in.
~ Stephanie Anderson, United States
Materials: BRODER System, PAX LYNGDAL sliding doors, strips of wood, 10m of RGB LED strips
Description: When we moved to our new flat we had a some drywalls which were ment to be used as a built-in wardrobe. As I didn't want to use some curtains covering some shelves, we decided to build an awesome wardrobe in this space with the BRODER system and the PAX LYNGDAL slyding doors.
First, we built up the BRODER rack. Therefore we used the wall mounted version for the left side of the ledge. There, we used the used the front brackets and applied the small wooden shelves to it. At the edge and the remaining space we used the height extension posts as well as the metal shelves and two clothes rail on the center brackets. At the end, we had two 120 cm broad sections and two 80 cm sections.
So that the interior was set up, we had to build a construction in which the sliding doors would work. We had about 241 cm in the height and 360 cm width to cover. As IKEA does not offer doors with such a size, we used one pair which is 150x236 cm and another one with 250x236cm. To actually make them sliding doors, we built a frame out of wooden strips, which covered all sides and was simply screwed together with the walls, ceiling and floor. We added a notch in the upper strip, so that we were able to plunge the upper rail of the door into it. The lower rail was screwed on top of the strip.
To give it all a bit more style, we bought some LED strips which can change their color and glued them on the leftover space of the frame, so that the glass doors are illuminated from behind.
~ Pia, Aachen, Germany
Thursday, 29 November 2012
Materials: Vika Amon, Micke Desk, Snille Chair, Spontan Boards
Description: #1 & #2 son quickly outgrown the activity table they have been using as a desk - as you can see from the "before", #1's PC dominates 1/2 the table.
My wife and I use a hacked Galant workstation (will post it here soon), and I was hoping something similar for the kids, but the size of the space, and frankly cost, was a factor.
I spent far too much time with the catalog and the website trying to find something to fit to no avail. For some reason I saw Vika, but not Micke.
We wandered over to our local Ikea this weekend, and were pleasantly surprised to find the Micke desks + a Vika Amon table would fit the space perfectly! (Plus, it was "free lunch" weekend, so that was a nice added bonus.)
The final assembly is two (2) Micke Desks, without the long drawers, one assembled to the left and one to the right, joined to a Vika Amon table.
Unlike Galant, the Vika and Micke are not solid tops, they are some sort of hollow-core arrangement, so that did not give me the screw grip I had hoped for with the mending plates (Home Depot T37).
To provide more stability and strength to the Mickes while still allowing for full leg clearance, I turned the side brackets 90 degrees and fastened them to the back as a rear leg. To do this I measured and tapped holes to allow for the standard stud and cam attachment system. This worked well and made for a sturdy connection. As advice, I'd say adding the dowels with some wood glue would not be a bad idea. (In fact using wood glue on all the dowels wouldn't hurt).
Some caveats to the mending plates - the Mickes tops are about 1/8" (3.1750mm) smaller then the Vika top - to compensate I used washers as spacers. Next time I would probably use fiber or nylon spacers instead. You also have to be very careful when tapping the screws, since as I said these are hollow-core tops. Aligning everything, especially on carpet, can be a challenge as well. I wound up having to shim one leg of the Vika with a 3/4" (19.05mm) piece of wood to get it all straight because of a low spot in the carpet.
The result is sturdy and should hold up well, but I still may look into getting some light box steel and making some sort of Galant-like frame near the back, attached to the Vika's legs.
Since the long drawers attach to the sides of the Mickes, we elected to put them aside for now. We're considering either using them back-to-back on the long side of the Vika, or possible altering one to fit between the Vika's legs to open to the front of the table.
I will also be adding some sort of cable management to the backside of the workstation - because of the heating duct, there's about 4 inches of clearance, so that's a good place to hide wires.
We finished things off with two Snille Chairs, and two Spontan magnetic boards.
It's amazing how closely this fit into the space - I knew if we kept hunting we'd find something that would fit well and serve the purpose while looking typically Ikea-sharp and modern.
The total cost was less then $400.
~ Bob Williams, Chicago Area
Description: An old black EXPEDIT got a new industrial chic look
1. Sand down the bookcase
2. Apply primer. I used a water based one, let it dry overnight.
3. Apply 3 coats of paint.
4. To style, add stamps, patina gel, wood wax, labels.
See more of the industrial Expedit.
~ maya, Israel
Materials: Ribba LED picture light, Oppdal bedframe
Description: At first I cut off the lower back Part of the Ribba LED picture light (photo below, upper left picture). I also cut off the part between the drill holes of it, so that I can put the cables in between (photo below, upper right pic).
Next I removed the front part of the headstand of the bed and drilled the Ribbas in. When put together there is only a small gap between the large front and the upper part, so one could also cut a groove into it to make everything flush.
Other items on the picture:
Ribba, Oppdal, Fejka, Rutbo, Al�ng
G�spa, MYSA VETE 240x220,2x Gosa Pinje, 2x Gosa Raps
~ Ralf B, Cologne Germany
Wednesday, 28 November 2012
Description: Please join BILLY and I for a drink
I love to invite friends over for game night. While playing we love to eat and drink good together. That is why I decided to turn my BILLY bookcase into at BILLY bar cabinet.
I took the smart and easy way out andI turned to Parts of Sweden where you find a complete package for the BILLY bar cabinet.
I went online and ordered the complete package, a mirror and some green furniture foil. First I put the foil on the back of the BILLY. This way my BILLY is the star of my family room and it loves to be in the centre of attention!
Before you get started with the bar cabinet read the brief instructions thoroughly. The paper with the manual also includes a smart template showing where to drill. It works perfectly.
First mount the mirror on the back of the bookcase. Set the mirror on the fixed shelf that is in the middle of a high bookshelf. NOTE: The mirror is not included in the package, so do not miss it! Please note that the back of my BILLY is green.
On the back of the mirror glass is tape protected with protective paper. Remove the protective paper and press the mirror glass gently against the bookshelf cover.
Time to mark out and screw one half of the hinges, "mounting plates" as it appears on the description. Take the description that also has a template.
Place the template provided and press with an awl through the paper where it is checked for holes. Remove the template and screw the half hinge in the holes you made with the awl.
Put the bar-door flat on a clean surface. Place the other half of the hinges in the large holes.
Now, mount the flap hinges on the sides of the cabinet. Note that there is one for the left and one for the right side and they are different! Mount the flap hinges on the bar door as well.
Fitting the locking magnet. You should mount this on the upper shelf edge. Remove the rack from the shelf and place it on a flat, clean surface. Measure the center of the bottom. Keep locking magnet so that it comes about 20 mm from the front edge of the shelf. Mark the screw holes with an awl and then screw locking magnet.
Replace the shelf, measure exactly and mark the inside of the bar-door as well. Then attached the locking magnet on the bar-door. Use the awl to make it easier to screw in the mounting plate.
Now all you have to do is:
Invite your friends, turn on some Swedish House Mafia and ask: would you like an Absolute Greyhound?
Materials: Vika Glasholm board
Description: My brother in law was looking for a white board for his home office. He wanted an easy to clean one so he decided he preferred glass and got the vika glasholm board. Once at home he realized it was really heavy and couldn't find a good way to hang it. At the end he screw this six round door stoppers to the wall and assembled it.
Sorry, but he was already working on something when I took the photo so I blurred his writings.
~ Ana, Bilbao
Materials: 3 x MALM with 3 drawer; 4 x Expedit 2x2
Description: Unfortunately, the bedroom in our new apartment is a bit small. To gain more storage space, we have set up our bed to MALM dressers and Expedit shelves.
First of all drawers and shelves are built according to instructions, and positioned as desired:
All pieces were connected via screws so that they can no longer move as single items.
There are differences in height between Malm and Expedit. With some boards we have cleared these:
The mattresses and bed is finished with a solid wood frame, so they can not slip off accidentally.
~ Thorsten, Cologne; Germany
Materials: Ikea Pugg wall clock and Ikea Torka dried bouquet and Bison montagekit transparent adhesive
Description: 1. Nuy a $20 Ikea Pugg wall clock and two packs of $5 Ikea Torka dried bouquets.
2. Divide the bouquets each piece into 3 or 4, it is up to you whether you want the arms longer or shorter.
3. Glue the pieces around the clock one by one and let it dry for a day facedown.
~ Melis Koymen, istanbul, Turkey
Tuesday, 27 November 2012
Description: My old MOPPE has quadratic drawers what makes it especially good to build lightboxes from it.
1. You need a bulb-holder. (Be careful, don't take too strong bulbs, not more than 25 watt. I assume no liability.) Depending on the radius of your bulb-holder you have to modify the grip hole (with the help of a reciprocating saw, or a coping saw).
2. Saw slits into the bottom of the drawers. It helps to drill first one hole in each corner, so you can place your saw blade in the right position. Next: Polish the slits with a sandpaper.
3. Now you have to choose your favorite color for your Lightbox. You can paint, varnish or bond the MOPPE with paperboard (just like me). My favorite glue for this job is "Fixogum". It's not that cheap but it works really fine.
4. Finally put the bulb-holder through the grip hole (I saw it convex, so that the bulb-holder cannot slip out of the hole) and screw the bulb into the holder.
The light looks great as a standard lamp on a sideboard. If you like to use it as a wall light, screw it through the bulb-holder onto the wall or nail a little hook on the back and hang it up.
See more of the Moppe lightboxes.
~ Isabelle Koch, Germany
Description: My old MOPPEs corpus is especially good to build a standard lamp from it.
1. First print a stencil for the light-holes.
2. Then drill out the holes. Take a drill with a small diameter.
3. Now you have to choose your favorite color for your Corpuslight. I overcoated the inside with white varnish (don't forget to tape the edges) and the outside with wood-colored (wenge) varnish.
4. In the next step install a bulb-holder inside the MOPPE (I pulled a nylon-twine through two holes an the bulb-holder). Be careful, don't take too strong bulbs, not more than 25 watt. I assume no liability.
5. Finally bond transparent paper over the two big slits (I fixed it with tape). You can bend the transparent paper easily. In this way you avoid wrinkles and the light gets a soft character. Its also possible to use colored transparent paper or (colored) foil.
See more of the Moppe Corpuslight.
~ Isabelle Koch, Germany