Monday, 28 February 2011
Materials: Ivar shelving units
Description: I work for a small architecture firm in southern California, and last summer I started working from home 3 days a week. I had a small workspace setup prior to that, but it was inadequate for actual day to day work. I needed storage space for books, my computer, stuff, and a big enough desk surface to roll out drawings.
So, I borrowed, and slightly modified the way we set the office workstations up at my firm. We use Ivar's as deskstands with door blanks as the desk surface. The setup I've done at home is similar, but I've used Europly plywood as the desktop. For a small bedroom space, this arrangement works really well.
~ Kyle, Los Angeles
Materials: Malm Storage Unit, Galant Monitor Stand
Description: Only a little hack ;)
The Malm Storage Unit is perfect to hide things like the TV guides, bottle opener, the reserve of sweets, ... but they are not big enough for a coffee table. So I have expanded it with a Galant Monitor Stand and 3 short table-legs. To stop the stand from slipping I used double-sided adhesive tape (the black under the table-legs).
~ Ingo, Cologne, Germany
Sunday, 27 February 2011
Materials: Isbrytare lamp (no longer in production)
Description: This is not mine but I thought you'd be interested. Instructables user derte84 build a lo-fi projector to display photo slides on a huge wall. Also works for lomo slides.
See the step-by-step instructables [via Unplggd].
Materials: 2x Lack side tables, 1x Lack coffee table, Loctite construction adhesive, Polycrylic
Description: We had a tiny "breakfast nook" in our newly remodeled (Ikea Adel MB!) kitchen and wanted an affordable way to add a small table for two. The space available was *very* narrow (we had to be able to open the pantry and access the window/trash can), and we wanted something pub-height so we could use the same stools that are at our breakfast bar. I had been wanting to hack-a-lack for a while, and when I saw the $19.99 coffee table, I was sold!
Step 1: Purchase 2 Lack side tables, 1 Lack coffee table, construction adhesive, and poly (for the table top, we used water-based). Cost: approximately $40-45.
Step 2: Set one side table top on the floor, shiny (paint) side up. Glue four legs to the corners of the top surface. It can be tricky to get these square and/or level, so be aware you may need to adjust a bit as the adhesive sets. Try to wait until almost completely dry before proceeding.
Step 3: Glue the tops of the four 'first-tier' legs to the bottom (not finished side) of the second side-table top. Weight and wait for it to dry.
Step 4: Repeat step 1 on the top of your new "box" to create the second-tier legs.
Step 5: Measure carefully on the coffee table top to center the table base/legs so overhang is the same on both ends. Glue the tops of the second-tier legs to the bottom of the coffee table top, add weight, and wait for it to dry completely.
Step 6: Apply 2-3 coats of poly to the table top. We only did this on the very top (the coffee-table piece), since that's where beverages, etc would be set, but you could apply it to the entire structure if you were ambitious. Use very very fine sandpaper between coats to remove bubbles.
Step 7: Voila! Bistro table for 2 that fits in a very narrow space. We added felt pads on the corners of the bottom layer to protect the floor.
Leftovers for other hacks: coffee table shelf (same size as top but thinner), set of 4 Lack legs.
~ Blair, Knoxville, TN
Saturday, 26 February 2011
Materials: L�bbo, Hemma, scissors, knife
Description: 3 small L�bbo shades were cut on the long side in small strips. These strips were stuck in small cuts I have pierced into one big L�bbo shade, that's it.
It is quite a lot work, it looks best, when the pattern of the strips is rather irregular woven. I also used the non shiny side of the shade in the front - so it looks more natural.
The shades are hung up on the usual Hemma lighting suspension.
~ Vendela, Linz Austria
Materials: Varde free standing cabinet
1) Took the Varde cabinet (great organizer, looks tacky from the back).
2) Added a shoe organizer at the end (so when we come into the kitchen from the outside we leave boots at the door, and grab slippers from the shoe organizer)
3) Covered the whole thing in 1/4 ply and 1 x 3 MDF trim
5) Installed new Ikea wood counter on top (removing worn out thinner one that came with the unit)
~ Jenny Moye
Materials: Effektiv cabinet, custom birch plywood table top
Description: Last year, we installed a large set of Effektiv cabinetry in the family room: shelving for games and books and drawers for videos and toys, etc. Two standard Effektiv wall cabinets across the middle created a 67" wide space for a desk, but Ikea has no good option for tables or desks 67" wide. So, we made a 67" wide birch-plywood "media desk" using this cut-down Effektiv cabinet for support. "Media desk" means that the cabinet contains and hides our media computer and the subwoofer part of the audio system. It also hides a large pile of cables, with the help of a Galant cable organizer.
The standard Effektiv cabinet is about 33" wide and 37" tall. Our half-pint is about 17" wide and 29" tall. The width is determined by the width of a single cabinet door, and the height sets the typing height of the table. Most of the modifications were made to the Effektiv plinth: it was shrunk to 17" wide by cutting a slice out of the middle to preserve finished edges on both sides, a large hole was cut in the top of the plinth for the subwoofer, and the front and back trim pieces were cut off 2" above the floor for airflow. The first picture shows the modified plinth, with subwoofer in place, without the top cabinet.
The Effektiv cabinet on top of the plinth was cut down to bring total height to 29", and the door cut down to match. The side pieces were cut at the top, to preserve the factory-machined attachment to the plinth. The door was cut at the bottom, to preserve the factory-finished edge at the top. A single shelf is used in the cabinet, cut in half and positioned 1" back away from the door to allow computer airflow. We left off the back of the cabinet, for cable management and airflow.
We repackaged the computer from a large conventional box to a "home media center" case, the Apevia X-MASTER-BL/500. Fits like a glove, perhaps a bit too tight with 1/2" space on the sides. The computer is an "undervolted" Intel Core Duo with a quiet power supply and disk drive. Air flow for the computer comes in the bottom by the subwoofer, up through the gaps in the plinth and shelf, around the computer and out the back. It's pretty quiet with the door closed, with slightly audible fan noise mostly from the high-end graphics card that we should replace because it's making the computer a bit too warm.
The subwoofer is happy in its new home. Six feet away or farther it sounds the same as it always did, for music or movies. When you're seated at the media desk with the music cranked up, the desk vibrates a fair amount. The kids like it.
The table top of the media desk is a piece of birch-veneer plywood, finished with satin polyurethane and bolted to the wall and the Effektiv cabinetry. We cut the leftover Effektiv door in half to make an extra shelf on top, supported on 6" Capita legs (another IkeaHackers idea).
The second picture shows the half-pint cabinet in place, holding up its end of the media desk. The Effektiv cabinet to the right is its unmodified big brother. We hope that the wood color will fade to match in a year or two.
~ Ken Sinclair, Boston, MA
Friday, 25 February 2011
Materials: Tolsby frame, plastic cross-stitch canvas, scissors
Description: This hack is great for someone like me who loves to own a lot of earrings and need something to display them out neatly without costing too much.
The Tolsby is an excellent choice for earring display at home and for product selling, I have used this display for my local craft fairs to great effect.
It holds a decent amount of earrings for pierced ears, works well for studded and hook style ones of any size and shape.
1. Purchase a 7 count plastic cross-stitch canvas from a craft store. The '7 count' simply means there are 7 holes per inch on the canvas. I found that size the best to accommodate earrings.
2. Measure and cut out a 4x6 inch sheet from the canvas and slide into the frame. I managed to fill 4 Tolsby frames with the 1 plastic canvas I purchased.
3. Fill it with earrings!
~ Jen, Sydney
Materials: Not, Mammut
Description: I had the NOT lamp and the MAMMUT shelf for a long time by my bed as a reading light and book shelf, one day I accidentally knocked the lamp down and broke its standing pole.
Instead of throwing it away I decided to attach the lamp to the shelf to maintain the same function as before.
The process was quite straight forward, the shelf opens into two parts so all the cables can be hidden inside, I drilled holes for the lamp poles and cables and that was it.
~ Daniel Metcalfe, IT
Materials: RETUR waste sorting bin
Description: In our bedroom there's a lack of space beside our bed. I have spent a lot of time figuring out a solution for a bedside table.
Then suddenly I saw the RETUR bin and with a little time and creativity I made it fit into our bedroom.
I used wallpaper, decorative plastic and goldcolour.
See more of the Retur bedside table.
~ Helene Langborg, Sweden
Thursday, 24 February 2011
Materials: Regolit lamp
Description: When I saw Joey's cherry blossom lantern, I immediately fell in love with it. Since I already had two Regolit lamps at home, I decided to make my own cherry blossom lanterns.
I liked Joey's a lot, but I was looking for a more delicate appearance, I wanted the flowers to look like real cherry blossoms and I found some soft pink faux cherry blossoms at the local DIY market. I needed two branches for one lamp, one branch for 1,49 �. Thanks Joey for the great inspiration!
~ Sarah, Germany
Materials: Corner workstation MIKAEL, some small paper or cd boxes MACKIS
Description: In the original corner worstation, I disliked the metallic storages, not useful and fast shambolic.
That's why, instead of, I fixed some small paper or cd boxes. Then, I painted facades to match them with the wall. To finish, I added LEDs to light the work-surface and fixed my internet box.
~ Fraineau Nicolas, France (Toulouse)
Wednesday, 23 February 2011
Materials: Billy, Gulliver, Perfect Adel oven panels
Description: I took Ikea crib Gulliver, two oven panels from Ikea kitchen line, and old favourite Billy book shelf. One oven panel became a headboard and another became backing for Billy, and Billy became a foot-board.
The actual, foot-board and headboard from Gulliver I used as a template to drill the holes on the oven panels. Use the existing heardware. And oven panel attached to Billy with corner mounting pieces (all four corners).
See more of the crib with open shelving.
~ Alissa C.
Materials: 1 BRALLIS cloths hanger, 2 "thumbscrew" design aluminum connectors (part # ADR11-B1 Thomas & Betts 'Blackburn' connectors), 1 flathead hand screwdriver, 1 power screw driver, 2 metal 1/4" dowels or headless bolts, 2 wood screws.
Description: Here's how a clothes hanger can become a modern looking, attractive storage for glassware:
Take a BRALLIS hanger,which is constructed of metal tubing, remove the 2 black rubber nubs from the two tube ends, insert 2 metal 1/4" dowels or headless bolts into these openings, and attach 2 "thumbscrew" design aluminum (part # ADR11-B1 Thomas & Betts 'Blackburn'connectors) -- these can be purchased in the electronics dept. at HomeDepot -- to the protruding metal dowels. Tighten using an (archaic) flathead screwdriver. And, lastly, screw the connectors and entire clothes hanger assembly to the underside of an above head shelf.
You can orient to your liking the "tracks" for the wine glass bases to slide upside down. The connectors act as stand offs to provide the needed gap between the bottom of the shelf and the "tracks" of the wine glass rack. The glasses hang upside down, slide on very handily, and conveniently store above head same as is done in the Pub. Cheers!
~ Don Deutsch, Minneapolis, MN USA
Materials: Billy, Besta, Tombo doors, Grundtal rails, brackets and hinges from hardware store
Description: In our 1903 apartment we were facing the typical problem of an ugly surface-mounted fuse box that we wanted to hide. As the ceiling is quite high, we couldn't find a piece furniture tall enough. So we took a Billy bookcase (79 1/2", 202 cm tall) and fixed it to the wall with metal brackets.
The fuse box is now hidden behind a Tombo door. All the extra wiring for the wifi-hardware is behind the door we built from one of the Billy shelves that we didn't need anymore.
To complete the wardrobe and get space for all our winter gear and helmets we hung a Besta shelf-unit/height extension (47 1/4", 120 cm wide) next the Billy, also with Tombo doors. The Besta had to be turned upside down because of the holes for the feet. The rod is made of two Grundtal rails. The Trones shoe storage makes the all-white wardrobe perfect. Unfortunately IKEA has discontinued the white Trones.
~ Jochen and Edith, Germany
Tuesday, 22 February 2011
Materials: Wxpedit, Dampa, Bigarra, Ikea plants
1) Assemble 4x4 EXPEDIT with only one vertical row of shelves on the left and without the bottom.
2) Before adding the right vertical panel put in two screws that stand out half an inch to hold the DAMPA curtain rod.
3) Cut the rod to the right size, put it in place, add the right panel.
4) Add three EXPEDIT inserts with doors on the left.
5) Add the plants in BIGARRA pots on top.
Assembling it is faster than assembling the whole Expedit.
This wardrobe is great to create a semi-transparent division between entrance and living room.
~ imaia, Vancouver
A. Student's versionUpdated 30 August 2012
Materials: Expedit shelving unit (white 5x5), Hugad curtain rod (black, 210 - 385cm), x2 long bolts with nuts, x5 Drono box (black)
Description: I was planning on doing something similar to this but decided it was too small for all of my clothes so I upped it to the 5x5 version. I went with the cheapest options (white shelving unit and Drona boxes) which are probably what I would've gone with aesthetically anyway.
The instructions in the previous post pretty much covers it so I'll just refer you to that but there are a few things I did differently:
1. It's worth mentioning the wooden pegs used to hold the inner shelving units together. The pegs going into the outer frame are fine as they are but the other ones (picture 2) need to be shortened to prevent them from protruding into the rail space. Easily done with a few minutes of sawing before hammering them in.
2. I drilled a hole through the two sides of the outer frame and used thick 3" bolts with nuts to hold the rail in rather than a decorated screw. Thought it'd be more secure, which I think it is.
3. I also used the bottom section for stability. I think it looks better anyway. Bit confused as to why they didn't use it in the other post tbh..
Two things I'd do differently if I did this again:
1. Perhaps use a stronger curtain rail. Because of the length, this one does bend slightly in the middle. Not a problem and barely noticeable but depends if you're really bothered about maintaining immaculate straight lines.
2. Use wood glue on every wooden peg you hammer in. I've had no problems yet but the upper shelving may end up losing integrity years down the line. Belt and braces etc.
~ A. Student, Studentville
Materials: 3 LACK side tables, at least 3 yards of fabric
Description: My roommate and I were perusing IKEA and saw a nice wall art display at IKEA. The store display used actual frames of some kind. Problem was, IKEA didn't sell those types of frames in their store (I don't even know why they displayed those frames in the first place). They did have fabric though, so we picked out a pattern that we liked.
On the way out we saw the LACK side tables on clearance for $5 each, so we decided that it would probably be less expensive to just wrap fabric around the tables rather than trying to find actual frames at a craft store.
We used a staple gun, clamps, at least 50 staples, at least 6 small nails, and at least 3 yards of a medium density wire.
To staple the cloth to the back of the table we stretched the cloth and clamped it on opposing sides. Using the staple gun we spaced the staples in the back about an inch apart. We repeated the process for the other opposing sides. Don't forget to cut off any excess fabric. To not have lumpy corners of fabric, cut the fabric at a 45 degree angle on the corner you're working with. Then pound in two nails two-thirds up the way on the back. Wrap some wire between the two nails and make sure the middle of the wire can extend to the top (or about the top 1/3) of the frame, to ensure it will hang properly.
And voila, art for the wall.
~ Dave T., Santa Monica, CA
Materials: Pax Fevik wardrobe door, DIODER led lights, some wood and two hooks
Description: I have always been a big fan of mood lighting and the low cost of IKEA lamps has allowed me to experiment with creating the perfect balance of functional and mood light.
So I decided to make a light panel for my recently purchased toy, a large plasma TV.
I had two packs of DIODER coloured led lights from some previous experiments, and set off to IKEA to find a glass panel door. I wanted a frosted glass panel as I figured this would diffuse the rather harsh lighting of the DIODER led's.
I picked up a slightly damaged Pax Fevik wardrobe door of 2.29m for 29,95 euro (less than half price!) and set off home.
The challenge was finding a way to hang the door without showing any hooks or wires. After visiting a few hardware stores for inspiration I came up with a simple solution. I mounted two small wooden blocks on the inside of the doorframe, just below the top edge of the frame.
The blocks are about 4 cm thick, creating some distance between the door and the wall, allowing the light to be diffused along the edges on the wall as well.
I had to find the right length of screws that would go thought the blocks and into the frame, but not show on the outside. The door weighs 15 kilos so I used three screws per block to attach it to the frame.
Once the wooden blocks were in place, I attached a simple hook used to hang heavy paintings to each one. I drilled two holes in the wall above my TV, inserted a plug and screw in each, and voil� !
Now I attached two more little wooden blocks to the bottom part of the frame to ensure that the distance from the wall was equal on the top and the bottom of the frame. For good order I used a couple of IKEA stick-on floor protectors on the wooden blocks so that they would not damage the wall.
Next I attached four DIODER light strips to the top of the door, and four to the bottom, using the sticking pads supplied with them. It takes some measuring to find the best spacing between them allowing for optimal light coverage within the panel.
Then came the task of making running the wires along the back side of the panel. I used little strips of black duct tape to stick the wires to the backside to make them invisible. That took about 1.5 hours, as you have to use enough tape so that it won't come loose in a couple of days....I led all the wires to the bottom of the frame where they exited in the middle.
Fortunately I didn't have to worry about hiding the wires at their exit point, as my TV covers this bit.
The final result was even better than anticipated!
~ Marc, Amsterdam, NL